So, recently I have been very poor with my upkeep of my blog, but with a renewed vigor Im going to start writing in this bad boy again.
So we set off on our trip to Oaxaca mexico( that if you follow the news was just hit with an ungodly amount of rain, which led to landslides of incredible measure and buried somewhere around 500 houses in various towns) in microbus, we crammed all of our luggage into the small microbus, which is basically a van, which guatemalans find the ability to fit 25 people in at times. So there we were heading into the Sina loa gang run area of the Guatemalan border. We were just about to make our first crossing of borders in central america. It was an experience to say the least, approaching the border was like throwing food to ants (not to be insulting), but the moment we all stepped off of our micro to get exit stamps, where were swarmed by people trying to change money with us, people trying to lead us away from where we needed to go, and people like always trying to sell us something. All of the money exchangers, were giving ridiculously horrible rates of exchange. We all decide to just wait it out. We received our exit stamps and walked our way to the entry station of mexico.
There was a natural divide between the borders which was a huge river. It reminded me of the trip that many migrants must make in order to travel to the states to find work. The book Enrique's journey elaborates much on the hardships that they all must experience. I did not stop to take a photo since we were surrounded by people trying to sell us things and exchange money.
Once across the border all of us had our bags searched and then we were back in the micro for the rest of our 6 hour journey to Tapachula from Xela, our next destination to catch a bus to Oaxaca. A thirteen hour bus. Luckily, we were not on a chicken bus, and it was a coach style bus. It was moderately comfortable....as comfortable as a 19 hour ride on buses could be.
The Cast
When we arrived in Oaxaca, we were immediately paired off and sent with hour family homestays for a week. My buddy ryan and I were paired together, and we were picked up.....oddly in a Subaru. This was a little more than I was expecting, because the fmaily home stay I have had in guatemala is most likely on the lower section of middle class and they do not own a car. We arrived at our new mothers home. My mouth literally dropped, because we were staying in a mansion. It was a georgous home, with private bathrooms and a huge area for lounging with every channel immaginable. For a little while, I thought i was dreaming and there was no way possible that this could be where we would be staying for the next week.
The attitude that we were given before coming to Oaxaca was much different what we actually experienced. Majority of us thought it was going to be dangerous and similar to guatemala, mostly inpart to the movie that our program showed us before we left. It was an interesting film about the teachers protests in the city of Oaxaca, which led to a large amount of government repression by Mexico and hit squads that eliminated certain leaders of the protest for more monies for students books, etc. The citizens of Oaxaca set up road barricades and it ultimately led to the intervention by military forces to stop the protests. This set the mindset that where we were headed was going to be quite intense.
The truth was quite different, Oaxaca was a gorgeous city, with a very vibrant culture, and many cafes and tons of great places to go and hang out. There was also an awesome market that had a section that was completely dedicated to smoked meat as there was just meat hanging everywhere. It was pretty interesting.
One of the first days went to the ruins of Monte Alban. It is one of the oldest ruins in central america with an origin around 500BC. Monte Albán had an estimated population of 17,200 making it one of the largest Mesoamerican cities at the time. This massive site was truly incredible and definetly had the awwwsnap factor to it. It had that mystical sense to it, that I have grown to truly enjoy. There was also an incredible view of Oaxaca from the ruins.
Right to bottom: ruins, Old Bball court....where the losers were scarificed, mystical pic, Somos hermanos....jamz
There was also an incredible church, that Ryan, Ann and myself went to check out. The Church of Santo Domingo is impossible to miss, as it is directly in the center or the city. The monastery was active from 1608 to 1857. In front of the entrances there are huge patches of agave plants. That in my mind is very reminiscent of the childhood video game Zelda. The building its self was magnificent and so beautiful. Inside they have a huge museum, which was definitely one of my favorite parts of our trip to Oaxaca. There were so many relics of the history there and a huge botanical garden that was most likely 200 years old and very impressive. The old walls of the monastery just had that feel of you know they have so many years. In their library there was books literally 100s of years old. Old surgery manuals and such that I found particularly interesting.
Right to left:
Overlooking the court yard, The ceilings, the awesome garden
Santo Domingo and Zelda like agave
We spent much time exploring Oaxaca and the various attractions that the city had to offer. One of the first nights out we went to a bar of a friend of our field coordinator ellie who is super cool! and there was a traditional Mexican band that was playing the local music, but and one member was playing a horse skull. I have never seen that before haha. The music was awesome and the experience equally awesome. The band was the Family Raices. All of their music was political to some extent, but was extremely enjoyable and totally unique, unlike anything I have ever heard, the mother and daughter stomped on a wooden box to the beat, was a form of salsa but making music at the same time...totally legit.
Also, while we where there it was approaching the bicentennial of independence of mexico, so every night there were various parades and different events going on. The whole atmosphere of Oaxaca, was dare I say it, much more exciting than Xela. The culture seemed so vibrant and so many people took so much pride in their country. It was something else to witness.
One of the night festivals !
One day we had a real cultural experience with a traditional medicine man...er woman....i guess...it was a very interesting procedure. It was known as a cleansing to remove the bad chi from your body....well it wasnt chi, just something similar. I wasnt sure if she was playing a joke on us, but i couldnt help but smile a bit, even if it wasnt culturally sensitive. The shaman was literally smacking us with ferns.....and for some reason smacked me especially hard in the groin.....guess she thought i needed cleansing, but who knows, it was interesting. She then proceeded to blow intense smoke into our faces that had some old tree sap in it. I felt like I prolly became sicker after the whole process since i couldn't breath, but I was relaxed....or just extremely lightheaded. Not sure haha
For your enjoyment,
Another day we traveled to the Milta Ruins, which were equally impressive. The city itself had such an old presence and was very alluring we were all very sad to have to leave, but as always, Es la Vida.
old aqueducts y calles
All in all I truly enjoyed our time in Oaxaca, except for the part where our tour guide hit a speed bum going like 60 mph and slammed my head into the roof of the van.....well i recieved the least of it, my buddy ryan was bleeding from the head after that.
ES LA VIDA
Sean